Rich in history and culture, Krakow gave far more than we perceived. We arrived in our accommodation in the middle of Kazimierz – the Jewish quarter, where Polish and Jewish cultures existed for many years up until the Nazi’s enforced relocation of the Jews to the Ghetto in 1941.
Today, Kazimierz is filled with buzzing bars and restaurants, each serving fantastic Polish food and locally brewed beer, not to mention an abundance of Polish vodka.
The market square in Kazimierz contains many food stalls serving street food, including my favourite, Zapiekanka – a massive open sandwich.
The Old Town of Krakow was not subject to any damage by the war, and today remains a beautiful part of the city. The main square is surrounded by restaurants, with live music, horse and carriages, and market stalls.
In the Old Town, on Wawel Hill the Polish General Tadeusz Kosciusko statue exists in honor of his fights for freedom and equal rights throughout Europe and US. Kościuszko Mound is a man made hill in Krakow, which inspired Count Paul Strzelecki, Polish patriot and Australian explorer, to name the highest mountain in Australia, Mount Kosciusko because of its’ resemblance to the mound in Krakow.
Further up Wawel Hill lies Wawel Cathedral, which is a Roman Catholic Church traditionally reserved for coronations of Polish monarchs and famously the site of Pope John Paul II first mass after his ordination to priesthood.
The architecture of Wawel Cathedral and the crypts is unique, as there was no set plan to the building of the cathedral, and many architects contributed to the design of the cathedral, with the cryts each being unique designs, meaning the entire establishment fits together to resemble a puzzle.
After a day of walking around the town, we deserved a feast of polish food and drinks. Pork in all forms, salads, potatoes and dumplings were on the menu, accompanied by mulled wine and vodka tea (yes that’s exactly what it is! Raspberry vodka in tea – who’d have thought?).
An excellent bar that we were recommended was Piwnica Pod Baranami – established in 1956 as a basement music venue which continues to provide musicians with a space to perform each night. The bar also provides great cocktails and an amazing atmosphere underground.
Our trip to Krakow would not be complete without a visit to the close by town of Auschwitz. It was not an enjoyable time, but a necessary one to remember those who lost their lives in World War 2 in the concentration camps established by Nazi Germany. The lost lives of the Jewish community and others who were targeted, are remembered in memorials at Berkenau camp where the majority of the mass killings were performed.
Krakow retained its’ beauty after the war, and once liberty was restored the Jewish community were able to return. Unfortunately, the Jewish community now has only a population of roughly 600 people compared with over 50,000 before WW2 due to migration and the holocaust. Historic site preservation and the emergence of restaurants and shops aligned with the Jewish culture, is contributing to the regrowth of the Jewish community in Krakow.
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